SHANGHAINESE “LION’S HEAD” MEATBALLS

By Melissa King

When I was a kid, my dad cooked just one thing: si zi tau (“lion’s head meatballs”), a homey Shanghainese dish of pork meatballs simmered with napa cabbage and glass noodles in a flavorful, gingery chicken broth and served with rice. As a kid, I’d watch him vigorously mix ground pork with egg whites, cornstarch, and water with his hands, part of the alchemy behind their signature tender, silky texture. I’d help him shape the large orbs (big, like a lion’s head) while he talked up the importance of refrigerating them before cooking and never, ever skipping the egg whites. He’d tell me that lion’s head meatballs reminded him of Shanghai and his mom’s cooking. At the time, they reminded me of “stinky lunch box” embarrassment—a typical tale of the first-generation American experience. Now they remind me of him.

MEATBALLS

Serves 4

1 pound ground pork (preferably 20% fat)

2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine

2 teaspoons cornstarch

2 teaspoons chicken bouillon powder

1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt

1 teaspoon Chinese light soy sauce

1/2 teaspoon white sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper

2 large egg whites

2 scallions, minced

1 by 1-inch knob ginger, peeled and finely grated on a Microplane

2 tablespoons water

 

TO FINISH

Canola oil (about 4 cups), for shallow-frying

5 cups 2-inch pieces napa cabbage

6 cups low-sodium chicken stock

1 teaspoon Chinese light soy sauce

1 teaspoon Chinese oyster sauce

1/2 teaspoon white sugar

1/4 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt, plus more as needed

1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper, plus more as needed

2 slices peeled ginger

3 ounces dried bean threads (thin mung bean noodles)

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons water

Make the meatballs: In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients except the water and mix and squeeze the mixture by hand to distribute the ingredients well, about 1 minute. Add the water and continue to mix and squeeze until the mixture is smooth and homogenous, about 2 minutes more. Do not be gentle. This process emulsifies the mixture and helps give the cooked meatballs their distinctive texture. Don’t be alarmed by the looseness of the mixture. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, to let the mixture firm up, or up to 4 hours.

To finish: Pour 1 inch of canola oil into a large wok or skillet and heat over high heat for 5 minutes. When the oil is ready, the end of a wooden chopstick or wooden spoon submerged in the oil will immediately release little bubbles.

Using wet hands, scoop out about one-fifth of the mixture, shape into a meatball as best you can, and carefully add it to the oil. Repeat with the rest of the mixture, leaving a little space around each meatball. Cook, flipping once halfway through, until deeply browned all over, 5 to 6 minutes. As they’re done, use a slotted spoon or spider strainer to transfer to a 10-inch clay pot or 31/2- to 5-quart Dutch oven.

Add the cabbage, chicken stock, light soy sauce, oyster sauce, sugar, salt, white pepper, and ginger. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to cook at a gentle simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Add the noodles, stirring so they submerge in the liquid, and cook, uncovered and stirring, until the noodles are translucent and tender, 2 to 3 minutes more.

In a small bowl, stir together the cornstarch and water until smooth. Bring the broth to a boil, then drizzle the cornstarch slurry directly into the broth, and simmer until the broth thickens slightly, about 1 minute. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

Read Noma Faingold’s interview with Melissa King.

Melissa King’s Lemongrass Cioppino Recipe here.

Bonus photos and comments below.

Melissa’s website.

“Cook Like a King” Text copyright © 2025 by Melissa King. Food photographs copyright © 2025 by Ed Anderson. Lifestyle photographs copyright © 2025 by Ashley Batz. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group A division of Penguin Random House LLC.”

“Cook Like a King: Recipes from My California Chinese Kitchen” can be purchased at your favorite independent bookstore. Autographed copies available from our favorite place for food writing, Omnivore Books. Or order via Indiebound. 

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SOME INSTAGRAM POSTS

Want to see the best day of my life?! Want to know how to make me scream? Want to know how to make me cry? 😭

I’m beyond excited to finally share with you that I’ll be visiting @sesamestreet as they introduce their first ever Asian American muppet named Ji Young — she’s 7 years old, Korean, and loves tteokbokki! I’ll be in the kitchen cooking with the best sous chef in town: Cookie Monster! 😭😭😭 Sweet Little Gonger was hanging around too (not enough cry faces for all of this!) #monsterfoodie

This was such a bucket list moment for me. Growing up as a Chinese American, Sesame Street helped me learn English when my parents spoke only Cantonese at home. My all time favorite, Cookie Monster, inspired me to explore new foods while also remembering to eat all the cookies in my mom’s cookie jar. I was probably Ji Young’s age when I was glued to the tv juggling Sesame Street and episodes of Julia Child and Yan Can Cook on PBS. I couldn’t be more proud and honored to be a part of this special AAPI episode to empower Ji Young and other children to embrace the beauty of Asian foods and other cultures, support one another, and know that we all belong. 💕

You’ll see me and a few other amazing AAPI friends like @padmalakshmi @simuliu @naomiosaka @jimlee @annacathcart on this special episode of “See Us Come Together” airing on @hbomax and @pbskids Thanksgiving day!

Watch the enitre Sesame Street special.

My mom was disappointed that I didn’t speak Cantonese to her 😂but truthfully, I froze a little and you would too if you were in the presence of Malaysian/Chinese royalty. I was like “Shit!! Do I bow?!” 😅🙇🏻👑 This woman is a true icon and inspiration to Asians everywhere, particularly Asian women. I remember watching Super Cop in Cantonese and begging my mom to let me do kung fu so I could fight like her and become a Hong Kong action star. 🤣I even re-enacted pretend fight scenes on my sister who always let me beat her up. Thankfully for everyone, I stuck to cooking, and the journey continues to surprise me everyday.

And yes Michelle Yeoh looks amazing if not even more gorgeous IRL. Pure elegance and grace!