The Secret Restaurant: Fancy Tuna Salad, Niçoisely

by Peter Moore

Our sunny September summer continues in the Bay Area, and there’s nothing like a big salad to enjoy at this time. I’ve always liked a Salade Niçoise  and it’s pretty easy to put together—whether or not it’s particularly authentic is another question. A Niçoise is traditionally made with canned tuna, and while I’m not sure if it was a Niçoise they were making when it happened, canned tuna was responsible for the deaths of two women from Michigan who died of botulism in 1963. Continue reading

The Secret Restaurant: Goddamned Gazpacho

by Peter Moore

Some years ago, as a friend’s mother was recounting the events of her Mediterranean cruise, she described Greek customs officials coming on the boat in Athens: “They went through everything, they were like the goddamned gazpacho.” It works best in a Texas accent, but in any event, it forever branded this cooling Spanish soup as “the goddamned gazpacho” for me. Continue reading

The Secret Restaurant: Put an Egg(plant) on It

by Peter Moore

I know I promised the Cassoulet/Cass-Olé recipe this week, but the photo gods did smote me mightily by making my pictures blurry—“pun”ishment comes in many forms—and it will have to wait until next issue.

What I’ve got instead is a take on eggplant parmesan made more as an individual serving rather than a warm mass of layered sautéed eggplant, cheeses, and tomato sauce. And because everything tastes better when you put an egg on it, I topped it with a poached egg. Continue reading